Press
The City Paper
Friday, 09/01/06
Cool Springs Seems a Lot Cooler at Criallo's
By Danny Solomon Bonvissuto
I think my friend and dinner date Linda said it best Saturday night at Criallo’s when, after a 10-second scan of the menu, she looked up and proclaimed: “We should have come here when the doors opened, eaten, left, digested, and come back around 8 to do it all over again.”
My love for this woman is great for many reasons, but this most of all.
With a few standout exceptions — their signature Beef Wellington ($30) and Grilled Lamb Chops ($29) among the top two — the menu at Criallo’s is more fish and seafood than meat and potatoes and almost every entrée (and there are 18) sounded truly fantastic.
But. There’s always a but. The whole time I was volleying between the Pistachio Encrusted Mahi Mahi and the Blue Cheese Encrusted Halibut with Chive Oil, there was a not-so-little voice running around in my ear, causing trouble. Even though the décor, level of service and menu indicated otherwise, I kept thinking, “Is this little 100-seat spot stuck in the back of a maze of strip malls in Cool Springs really going to be able to pull off Grilled Wild Salmon with tomato-basil-coriander chimichurri?”
Cynical? Yes. Unacceptably snobbish? Sure. But tell me you wouldn’t think otherwise after weaving in-between a Captain D’s and 5 & Diner to get there.
Round about the time Server Don set down a beautiful plate of mushroom-topped foccacia, a halved zucchini nut muffin, two slices of wheat bread with sweet butter and a few veggies and ranch dipping sauce I knew the evil voice was just that. This plate of goodies came out compliments of the kitchen and, just when I thought Don was on to me and my reviewer ways, I noticed every table around us was not only breaking the same bread but asking for refills. Something I’d be tempted to do as well were it not for the Haystack Crabcakes ($14) we had coming.
Now this isn’t my first restaurant rodeo and it wasn’t my first — or 101st — crabcake. But it was the first one I’ve ever had that came wrapped in shredded potatoes and fried. Despite the inventive exterior, the inside lacked a definable flavor and was more of an indistinguishable mass of breading and meat than the conglomeration of flaky, slightly salty seafood I wanted it to be. The sauces, though, saved the day. In a flag-like presentation, a basil pesto, white rémoulade, spicy chili cream and fruity blend added zip where there was zero.
Previous disappointments were quickly forgotten after a few forkfuls of my Trio of Scallops, Shrimp and Lobster ($23), which Linda and I almost went to war over before she gracefully backed down and ordered the Macadamia-crusted Tilapia ($22). The amaretto chili cream sauce on my seafood (think Thai) was the perfect complement to the delicate meats and the sticky rice and sautéed vegetables added a harmonizing combination of carb and color.
When Don brought the dessert tray — a trite trick chain restaurants use but one of undeniable marketing genius — I honed in on the peanut butter pie ($6). In retrospect I wish I’d spent more time deliberating my selection because there’s a difference between the true glory of peanut butter pie and a thick wedge of flourless chocolate cake with a hard layer of peanut butter on top. Linda emerged victorious with the bread pudding ($6), a true work of art resting rather comfortably in a bath of sweet cream.
Despite a few menu missteps, what’s great about Criallo’s is not only did I feel welcome and completely taken care of from front door to table, but I also loved it happening on a lovely little bistro right in the middle of Cruel Springs. Let the rest of the world wait for an hour for a mediocre meal in the glow of a neon sign while you sip on steamed mussels. Better yet, have a pre-movie cocktail and appetizer snack — skip the popcorn — then return for the Lobster Nero in phyllo from their $7 tapas menu (3-6 p.m. Mon.-Sat, 9:30-11 p.m. Mon.-Thurs. and 10:30-midnight Fri. and Sat.).
If you’re anything like me — and despite the continuous stream of people through the door — you’ll feel like you discovered something nobody else knows about. That’s a large part of Criallo’s charm. It’s OK to shop like a tourist as long as you eat like a local.
My3cents, The Consumer Revolution
Posted By: smb12321 on 8/4/2006
Criallo's - Continually Quality Dining
If you want a gourmet restaurant without an attitude, try Criallo's in Cool Springs. It is owned by Cool Springs Wines & Spirits and to me has the best wine/food tastings in the state.”
The regular menu is eclectic and the specials are really special. For a pittance you get a luxurious tasting paired with high-end wines.
We recently had a tasting (6 courses- $65/person). The food was technically brilliant & the pairings were pure genius. Our lamb "pyramid" started very rare at the base to medium to crispy (!) at the peak with a buttery-wine reduction and fruit essences. We also received lobster bisque (with a small lobster tail), sashimi scallops, a block of onion, apple, cinnamon & spice with whipped creme. We got a "Study in Cremes" - individual dollops of whipped cream flavored with various ingredients from garlic to hazel. Those attending get a discount on any bottles bought that night.
The other side of the place is a bar with (low) live music. It's a nightclub atmosphere with the bonus of the grand food. The restaurant does not have the stiffness associated with places like this - it's still a friendly Southern place. By all means, try the food.
BillHobs.com
Grassroots journalism from Nashville
March 20, 2005
Food Done Right
I don't normally do restaurant reviews, but my wife and I had a very enjoyable dinner last night at Criallo's, a great little bistro located in a nondescript strip mall in Franklin, TN. I had the French Filet of Sirloin, Anna had the Chicken Artichoke Reggiano, and we split an appetizer (Springs Rolls) and a dessert (creme brulee). Excellent all around, and Criallo's has a cozy atmosphere as well. If you live in or are visiting in the Nashville area, pay a visit to Criallo's. Leave the kids at home.
TripAdvisor.com
Traveler rating: 5 of 5 stars
Oct 24, 2005: steve_bryant@agfg.com, Franklin
Criallo's - Continually Quality Dining
Ever since Quails closed its doors, this area has desperately needed a "good" eatery. The problem with Williamson County "dining" is that many judge the quality of the food by the cost...it's over-expensive so it has to be good. Enter Criallo's with a bang. Owned by the nearby wine store, it frequently features luscious wine tastings - 5 or 6 courses with selected pairings. ”
You are greeted with a smile and notice a piano and bar to the left, large booths to the right and a relaxed atmosphere. The unusual gourmet food does not resemble anything like the ready-made stuff offered by the numerous chains. From appetizer to dessert, it is quality, originality and service. I cannot say enough good things about this place.
This review is the subjective opinion of a TripAdvisor member and not of TripAdvisor LLC.
Southern Exposure Magazine
Excerpts from January/February 2004 Edition
"Nestled in the Cool Springs Wines & Spirits Plaza is a place called Criallo’s Bistro & Bar. It has recently re-opened under new ownership and management. They understand the competition they are surrounded by but have set themselves apart from what we have grown accustomed to expect when dining out. Criallo’s offers a unique and refreshing departure from the mass-produced experience. They restaurant slows down the pace and caters to each person – each individual plate.."
"The entrée we chose was the Spinach and Chicken Cannolli. The pasta, which is made fresh on site and then filled with spinach, chicken and cheese and topped with a sun-dried tomato sauce. Normally, this type of entrée could be heavy – but not at Criallo’s. In fact, with everything that we had consumed, we were surprisingly comfortable, even after the chef, Michael “Red” Monroe, appeared at our table with the most delicious Espresso Gateaux!"
"When it comes to dining in Williamson County, there are more choices than ever before. We have become home to several popular/well-known “corporately owned” as well as many “locally owned” restaurants. Come experience what the owners see as, “a great addition of individuality and calm in the Cool Springs area” and tell them Southern Exposure sent you."
Holiday Inn Web Site Reviews
Location: Franklin, TN
Serves: Lunch & Dinner
Criallo's Bistro & Bar
With a taste for every palette, Criallo's menu is bold, rich and extensive. From fresh seafood and pasta to lamb, the selection is diverse - yet consistent in its quality and purposeful in its ensemble. The food is prepared with exceptional care.